I woke up early to catch the ferry from Ibusuki to Minamiosumi, luckily this ferry allows bicycles! I met a guy named Kouki who was riding around Kyushu and Chugoku area on his Harley Davidson. He was heading north to Miyazaki while I was heading to the cape. Right away I could tell that it was going to be an ordeal…all I saw were mountains towards the southern cape from the ferry.
I stopped at the hostel but the lady wasn’t there so I unloaded my panniers and proceeded to Lawson for breakfast. I left around 930 towards the cape. The weather was nice and warm. Right away leaving the village there was a climb, and then a downhill along the coast passing through few farming villages. It seemed like a lot of these villages were mostly elders and barely kept alive. Living in this part of Japan is a constant battle against the jungle. It swallows everything in its path if not kept back. It doesn’t take long for the jungle to reclaim its land as evidenced by the abandoned buildings. The foliage is so dense and lush.
The road proceeded inland after leaving behind the coast. From there the road would climb over a mountain only to go back down towards sea level, and it would continue doing this all the way towards the cape. The area around the cape apparently fell victim to the boom and bust cycle caused by the Japan bubble pop in the 90’s. It is evidenced by all the worn out fancy signs and the big ugly hotels that are now empty and dilapidated. I stopped by the beach to take a break before going up the hill towards the cape…I talked to some old ladies who were having a picnic and they gave me an onigiri and some rice crackers for the road.
Before the climb up to the cape view point area, a booth stands where they once used to charge an entrance fee to visit here. On the way up I saw some monkeys hanging around eyeing me suspiciously. I gave out a HA! to scare them away…I didn’t want to get attacked by them. By the time I arrived to the cape, my knee was killing me again. How was I going to make it back? I limped up the stairs to the viewpoint and had a kid named Yamamoto take a picture of me, and I returned the favor. He was travelling around random spots in Japan before starting a new job out of college. We hung out and talked for a bit, he was planning to hitch hike back so we parted ways…hopefully the monkeys didn’t get him. Miraculously, my knees felt better after leaving the cape. I think the good guy above was helping me out.
The journey back always seems so much longer. My butt was aching and I was physically drained…but I made it back. I stopped and bought some oranges from a fruit stand that was watching me with a surveillance camera. Once back at the hostel I checked in with the lady and washed up. The bath tub was luke warm but it didn’t matter, I was too tired. My dorm buddy for the night is Wataru-san. He is from Kagoshima, an older guy just taking time off and traveling around the Kagoshima Bay area. He seems like a nice guy, gave me two postcards as a gift. Internet connection here is no good, went to Lawson to buy dinner and ate it back at the hostel. I had to make the trip twice there because I forgot my wallet the first time. I am planning to sleep early and sleep in late…the ride tomorrow I am told from the hostel lady is going to be easy. Best news I’ve heard today!